CHILAM BALAM

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در سه شنبه, 03 دی 1398 20:16

NORWEGIAN CLIMBER SINDRE SAETHER REPEATS ONE OF THE MOST DIFFICULT CLIMBING ROUTES: "CHILAM BALAM" CATEGORY 9A + / B
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The talented Norwegian rock climber Sindre Saether announced on December 1, 2019, that he had repeated one of the most difficult climbing routes in the world, “Chilam Balam”, of difficulty 9b (9a +), and It is 80 meters long
 he first tried to go through this line in November 2017. In the end, the Norwegian took about 85 attempts to complete!
Source: fanatic-climbing

First winter ascents on 8000meters

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در سه شنبه, 03 دی 1398 19:56

First winter ascents on 8000meters...All possible scenarios regarding the Time limits of winter

Table description
The table lists in turn: the date the base was set up, the date when it reached the top, the names of the winner

A: ascent to the summit 01.12 - 28 / 29.02

B: ascent to the summit 21 / 22.12 - 28 / 29.02

C: ascent to the top 01.12 - 20 / 21.03

D: ascent to the summit 21 / 22.12 - 20 / 21.03

a: base established at the earliest 01.12; ascent to the summit at the latest on 28 / 29.02

b: base established at the earliest 21 / 22.12; ascent to the summit at the latest on 28 / 29.02

c: base established at the earliest 01.12; ascent to the top at the latest on 20 / 21.03

d: base established at the earliest 21 / 22.12; ascent to the top at the latest on 20 / 21.03

At Nanga Parbat there were two dates of establishing the base, because the three winter winners of this mountain belonged to two

separate expeditions. Simone Moro founded his base on December 27, 2015, Alex Txikon and Ali Sadpara on December 31, 20
Credit: Dominobb twt

Brad Gobright perishes in climbing accident in Mexico

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در سه شنبه, 03 دی 1398 20:06

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Brad Gobright perishes in climbing accident in Mexico

On Wednesday, Highly talented US climber Brad Gobright has lost his life in a climbing accident on the  El Sendero Luminoso  in Mexico

Gobright had received international acclaim for his daring free solo climbs and for having set a new speed record on The Nose up

ElCapitan in 2017 with Jim Reynolds

He was one of the most experienced climbers in Yosemite Valley where he managed to ascend numerous big walls all free on El Capitan. In June 2015 together with Mason Earle he made the first free ascent of The Heart Route, while in 2016 he and Scott Bennett climbed Zodiac, The Nose and Lurking Fear in less than 24 hours. In 2018 he climbed what is known as the Yosemite Triple, Mt Watkins, El Cap and Half Dome in a day with Reynolds, and he also became one of the few who have managed to climb Salathé Wall free in a single day. Earlier this spring he completed single-day free ascents of The Shaft, El Niño Pineapple Express and Golden Gate

Source: Planet Mountain

The new winter by Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger announced

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در سه شنبه, 03 دی 1398 19:50

The new winter by Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger announced

Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger announced the next winter: the ascent of Gasherbrum I, and then they will try to climb the Gasherbrum II.
The goal will therefore be to reach the top of the GI (8.080m) and then descend to the point that joins the two peaks at 6500 meters, and then continue the climb to the summit of Gasherbrum II (8.035m).
The departure will take place in mid-December and the two will already be pre-acclimatised thanks to the terraXcube hypobaric chamber of the Bolzano
inside terraXcube , a hypobaric chamber where extreme climates are  simulated  and where they will spend four weeks there.
In the first two weeks, from November 16, Tamara Lunger and Simone Moro are sleeping in the terraXcube hypobaric chamber and will be training outside during the day.
From November 29th they will remain more or less continuously inside the hypobaric chamber, where they can train on a treadmill. The goal is to achieve good acclimatization up to 6400 m.
Both Gasherbrums have already been climbed in the cold season . The Gasherbrum II by Simone Moro himself together with Denis Urubko, and Cory Richards on February 2, 2011. The Gasherbrum I was conquered on March 9, 2012 by the Poles  Adam Bielecki  and Janusz Gołąb.
The first assemblage between the two mountains took place in June 1984 by  Reinhold Messner  and Hans Kammerlander, who climbed the two peaks without going through the base camp

Source: Montana.tv