THE "GOLDEN ICE AXE OF RUSSIA 2019"

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در چهارشنبه, 04 دی 1398 14:09

THE "GOLDEN ICE AXE OF RUSSIA 2019"

The winners of the Russian National Prize Piolet d'Or, "Golden Ice Ax of Russia 2019", have been members of the Krasnoyarsk Team for climbing the Tangra Tower, (5820m), Khane Valley - Pakistan, between July 30 and August 2, 2019
Denis Prokofiev
Marina Popova
Nikolay Matiushin

A very vertical line with about 800m through the southeast wall, total length 1160m and difficulty 6B Other best projects of Russian gold ice axe 
Kyazo Ri, 6186 m, Nepal - first ascent. Rostov team: Vasiliev A.S., Osipov I.D., Rybalchenko D.A., Shipilov V.V
Trident, 5780 m, Pakistan - first ascent. Markevich Konstantin, Sushko Denis, Semenov Valery
Jannu, 7300 m, Nepal - unfinished ascent, opening from the east side to the south
shoulder. Nilov S., Golovchenko D
 Gasherbrum II, 8035 m, Pakistan - New solo route, alpine style, non-stop. Denis Urubko
 Blok Peak, 5239 m, Kyrgyzstan - first ascent. Parfyonov Alexander, Timofeev Vyacheslav, Sukharev Alexey, Babiy Dmitry

Source: Anna Piuonova FB

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Ama Dablam and Lobuche East in the winter

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در چهارشنبه, 04 دی 1398 13:27

American climber, Alex Goldfarb and Hungarian Zoltan Szlanko planning climbing trip to Khumbu Valley, Nepal from mid-January to mid-February of 2020. The goal is to summit Ama Dablam and Lobuche East in the winter conditions
The plan is to climb Lobuche East first, mostly for the purpose of acclimatization. Following that Alex and Zoltan are planning to climb Ama Dablam alpine style
Source: russianClimb

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Leo Houlding fulfilled his childhood dream

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در چهارشنبه, 04 دی 1398 13:23

Leo Houlding  fulfilled his childhood dream

As planned, on Wednesday, December 4, 2019, Leo Houlding, one of the best climbers in Britain and his team Anna Taylor,  Wilson Cutbirth and  Waldo Etherington, and local guides,
free climbed a 600-meter wall of Mount Roraima, and reached the top

They have not yet decided the name they will give to the route

more about Mt. Roraima
Mt. Roraima(2,810 m), located in the Amazon rain forest and is on the border between Brazil, Venezuela and Guyana, has a flat top
It climbed for the first time in 1973 by the British Hamish MacInnis, Joe Brown, Don Whillans & Mo Anthoine
Source: Berghaus

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CLIMBING INCLUDED IN THE PROGRAM OF THE YOUTH OLYMPIC GAMES 2022

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در چهارشنبه, 04 دی 1398 13:17

CLIMBING INCLUDED IN THE PROGRAM OF THE YOUTH OLYMPIC GAMES 2022

The Executive Committee of the International Olympic Committee announced the program of competitions to be held in Dakar

Building on a potential pathway for Youth Olympians, the four  sport climbing – breaking, skateboarding,, and surfing – will all be on the programme in the Senegalese capital Dakar. The sport climbing events will be held in bouldering, instead of the combined event contested in both Buenos Aires
Source: Olympic Channel

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I will not name Poles as winter winners of Broad Peak

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در چهارشنبه, 04 دی 1398 13:12

Denis Urubko: I will not name Poles as winter winners of Broad Peak 
Interview with Denis Urubko by polish Journalist, Jakub Radomski

Why is Broad Peak the main goal of your upcoming winter trip

Denis Urubko: For several reasons. First of all, it is an eight-thousanders. Secondly, I have many positive associations with this summit. I was on the summit in 2003 and 2005, the second time I opened a new route there. I know the route to the summit very well, I also know how to acclimatize there. This is a good goal for a small team that wants to enjoy climbing in winter, and not just fight low temperatures, ascent difficulties, wind and other problems. In addition, no one has ever climbed Broad Peak in winter.
.
No one? On March 5, 2013, Adam Bielecki, Artur Małek, Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski stood on the summit. The last two did not go down to the base and stayed there forever. It is the feat of these four officially considered the first winter ascent of Broad Peak.
Calendar winter is different and meteorological is different. I'll give you an example. During the trip to Broad Peak I will be accompanied by Canadian Don Bowie. When we planned the trip, he said, "Denis, we should attack the summit in March." "Why?" - I ask. And Bowie says, "Because it's much warmer then." And of course he is right. March in the highest mountains is already spring. That is why I consider the first winter entries to take place between December 1 and the end of February. In mid-January 2005, Piotr Morawski and Simone Moro entered Sziszapangma, while on December 11, 2004 the Frenchman Jean-Christophe Lafaille climbed the summit. And I think he is the first winter conqueror of Shishapangma. The same now, if one of us during the period I marked on you stands on Broad Peak, in my opinion will be the author of the first truly winter entry. Someone who will go down in history

Source: przegladsportowy

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the first ascents of Pangpoche I (6,620 m) and Pangpoche II

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در چهارشنبه, 04 دی 1398 13:06

Georgians Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze and Baqar Gelashvili , who have recorded the first ascents of Pangpoche I (6,620 m) and Pangpoche II (6,504 m), located about 15 km from Manaslu, in Nepal

The Georgians, however, repaired for the first time in them while climbing the Larkya Peak (6,416 m), from which they made the first ascent in autumn 2017
Upon their return home, they were unable to find any information about these peaks
There were only two precedents, starring Japanese climbers , in 2009 and in spring 2018, when a group led by Yasuhiro Hanatani had to change the objective before even reaching the base of the mountain due to the bad conditions of the glacier.
The Georgians climbed Edge and southwest face Pangpoche II in three days of Alpine style...from September 20 to 22
 they climbed North edge of Pangpoche I (6,620 m), from September 30 to October 3
Pic1 discription: Pangpoche I and Pangpoche II from Larkya Peak

source: Desnivelt