The new winter by Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger announced

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در سه شنبه, 03 دی 1398 19:50

The new winter by Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger announced

Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger announced the next winter: the ascent of Gasherbrum I, and then they will try to climb the Gasherbrum II.
The goal will therefore be to reach the top of the GI (8.080m) and then descend to the point that joins the two peaks at 6500 meters, and then continue the climb to the summit of Gasherbrum II (8.035m).
The departure will take place in mid-December and the two will already be pre-acclimatised thanks to the terraXcube hypobaric chamber of the Bolzano
inside terraXcube , a hypobaric chamber where extreme climates are  simulated  and where they will spend four weeks there.
In the first two weeks, from November 16, Tamara Lunger and Simone Moro are sleeping in the terraXcube hypobaric chamber and will be training outside during the day.
From November 29th they will remain more or less continuously inside the hypobaric chamber, where they can train on a treadmill. The goal is to achieve good acclimatization up to 6400 m.
Both Gasherbrums have already been climbed in the cold season . The Gasherbrum II by Simone Moro himself together with Denis Urubko, and Cory Richards on February 2, 2011. The Gasherbrum I was conquered on March 9, 2012 by the Poles  Adam Bielecki  and Janusz Gołąb.
The first assemblage between the two mountains took place in June 1984 by  Reinhold Messner  and Hans Kammerlander, who climbed the two peaks without going through the base camp

Source: Montana.tv

EPAL PLANS TO OPEN 33 NEW MOUNTAINS FOR CLIMBERS

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در سه شنبه, 03 دی 1398 19:42

NEPAL PLANS TO OPEN 33 NEW MOUNTAINS FOR CLIMBERS

The Department of Tourism of Nepal in order to attract tourists to the country plans to open 33 new mountain peaks for climbers: the proposal with a list of peaks has already been submitted to the Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation of Nepal.

At present, 414 mountain peaks are considered open for mountaineering in Nepal (85 of which are still not passed by climbers!)
The routes for approaching each of the mountains and the location of base camps have already been identified
They hope that the discovery of the mountains will help attract more climbers from around the world
Source: alpinistiemontagne.gazzetta

TRAVERSE FOUR SIX-THOUSANDERS OF NEPA

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در سه شنبه, 03 دی 1398 19:30

ON THE WAY TO WINTER EVEREST: YOSHT KOBUSH PlANNED TO TRAVERSE FOUR SIX-THOUSANDERS OF NEPAL BUT BA

WEATHERSTOPPED HIM

26-year-old German climber Jost Kobusch  for the second phase of preparation for his main goal (climb Mount Everest in winter, alone and without additional oxygen), planned to traverse the four six-thousanders of Nepal, which are part of the Chulu mountain range.
At first he climbed the Chulu Far East , continuing the attack on the Chulu East, He arrived at 6,000 m 
but of the bad weather and fall of amount of snow, he had to give up the summit push and returned to Katmandu

We should notice that in previous weeks he climbed the Nepalese peak Amotsang (6939 meters) as the first ascent!

Jost already talking about new ideas. "As for future preparatory projects , stay tuned!" And We are waiting for the third round 

Source: @jostkobush

Russian gold ice axe

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در سه شنبه, 03 دی 1398 19:17

A few minutes ago, The 6 best projects of Russian gold ice axe announced

Kyazo Ri, 6186 m, Nepal - first ascent. Rostov team: Vasiliev A.S., Osipov I.D., Rybalchenko D.A., Shipilov V.V
 Tangra Tower, 5820 m, Pakistan - first ascent. Prokofiev Denis, Popova Marina, Matyushin Nikolay. Trident, 5780 m, Pakistan - first ascent. Markevich Konstantin, Sushko Denis, Semenov Valery
Jannu, 7300 m, Nepal - unfinished ascent, opening from the east side to the south
shoulder. Nilov S., Golovchenko D.
 Gasherbrum II, 8035 m, Pakistan - New solo route, alpine style, non-stop. Denis UrubkoBlok Peak, 5239 m, Kyrgyzstan - first ascent. Parfyonov Alexander, Timofeev Vyacheslav, Sukharev Alexey, Babiy Dmitry

The winner will be notified at the ceremony to be held at the ceremony on December 7

Source: Anna Piuonova FB

Global warming affects on Himalya

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در سه شنبه, 03 دی 1398 16:43

Global warming could decimate Himalayan mountains within a century

A new assessment says over two-thirds of the Himalaya's glaciers could melt by 2100

Even if steps are made towards reducing global warming, one- third of the Himalayas will still be affected

The report adds that by 2100, the region's temperature will increase 8 degrees Fahrenheit at the current rate

The study authors say melting will have dire consequences for people who get their food  and water from around the area

This would then lead to millions being displaced due to regions becoming uninhabitable

The potentially affected Himalyan area supply  water to at least 25% of the world's population

watch it here

Source: National Geographic

Yerupajá

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در سه شنبه, 03 دی 1398 16:35

Yerupajá

Yerupajá mountain with a height of 6617 m, is the second highest point of Peru and the highest mountain of the Cordillera-Wyyuash ridge

The first ascent to the summit was made in 1950 by Jim Maxwell and Dave Harrah

It is noteworthy that mountaineering legends such as Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler laid their route along the southeastern snow-ice ridge , moreover, in this ascent they traversed to the southwestern wall of Yerupah Chicho ( 6121 m). The local name for the mountain is El Carnicero, which means "Butcher." This name comes from the sharpness of the summit ridge, similar to the tip of a knife, also possibly from the number of climbers killed in attempts to climb the summit.

Erupaha is one of the most difficult peaks of the Andes, so few successful ascents to it have been made. The most popular route runs along the Southwest Wall.

Source: Summit post