first ascent of Toshe III

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در پنج شنبه, 13 تیر 1398 19:59

On 29 June Simon Messner, son of Reinhold Messner did the first ascent of Toshe III «local name Geshot Peak», appr. 6200m
It is located South-West of Nanga Parbat in Bunar Valley, Pakistan
Due to the difficult snow conditions, avalanche risk and the very unstable weather, he decided to climb the mountain in a single solo push from BC 4600m
The plan was to climb light and fast

Finally he reached the summit at 9:30 am ( 5h,30minutes in total). This mountain was unsuccessfully tried by a Polish and a Canadian Expedition

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2019 Piolets d'Or International Technical jury ...

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در پنج شنبه, 13 تیر 1398 08:23

...2019 Piolets d'Or International Technical jury 

For several years jury has comprised highly experienced alpinists
This year is no exception, with several jury members having climbed outstanding new routes that were awarded Piolets d'Or

:2019 Piolets d'Or International Technical jury
SANDY ALLAN
KAZUAKI AMANO
JORDI COROMINAS
VALERI BABANOV
FRED DEGOULET
INES PAPERT
ANDREJ ŠTREMFELJ

SANDY ALLAN

Sandy grew up in the Scottish Highlands, where he has now established many hard new winter climbs. His most significant high mountain achievement is undoubtedly the first complete ascent of the Mazeno Ridge of Nanga Parbat, a route awarded a Piolet d'Or in 2013

KAZUAKI AMANO

In 2008 Kazuaki from Japan, joined the late Fumitaka Ichimura, and Yusuke Sato - all members of the Giri-Giri Boys - to make the first ascent of the northeast face of Kalanka (6,931m) via the Central Spur, a line they called Bushido. This ascent was awarded a Piolets d'Or in 2009. He has been a previous jury member .for the Piolets d'Or

:JORDI COROMINAS
Jordi Corominas grew up near the Pyrenees his notable ascent that rewarded Golden Piolet in 1995 and 2004
1994: Meru Nord (6,450m), opening the Kundalini road, on the east side (activity awarded with the Golden Piolet) 

2004: K2 (8,611m), alone for the Magic Line (award-winning expedition with the Golden Piolet)

VALERI BABANOV

.Valeri Babanov is a Russian mountain guide, living in Canada

He achieved several first ascents  and speed records, and was awarded with the Piolets dor twice, at last for an ascent on the South Face of Nuptse Shar1

FRED DEGOULET

.Fred Degoulet is a  professional mountain guide
Because of South face of Nuptse Nup II (7742 m) in Nepal, Degoulet with team awarded 2018 piolets d'Or

INES PAPERT

Ines Papert is arguably the pre-eminent female alpinist of her generation. A former World ice climbing champion, some of her best achievements in the Greater Ranges include the first ascents of Likhu Chuli in the Rolwaling Himal, Quantum of Solace on the Great Walls of China and Lost in China on the southeast face of ...Kyzyl Asker in the Western Kokshaal-too. And too many first ascents

Ines was a Piolets jury member in 2012

ANDREJ ŠTREMFELJ

Listing Andrej Štremfelj's world class ascents in the Greater Ranges would take far more space than available. Probably his masterpiece is the bold alpine style ascent of the south ridge of Kangchenjunga's south summit, a climb awarded the first ever Piolet d'Or. Significant new routes on Gasherbrum I, Everest, Xixabangma and Gyachung Kang, together with the first ascents of two coveted 7,000ers, Menlungtse and Janak, exemplify why Andrej was a worthy recipient of the 2018 Piolets d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. In the past he has served on the Piolets d'Or Jury, both as a member and also as its president.

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First summer 2019 Broad Peaks Summit

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در پنج شنبه, 13 تیر 1398 19:58

First summer 2019 Broad Peaks Summit today

This morning ... A team of Furtenbach Adventures made it to the top of Broad peak 8051m

نخستین صعودِ این فصلِ "برودپیک"

صبحِ امروز ... تیمی از "فورتن‌بک‌ادونچرر" موفق به صعود برودپیک ۸۰۵۱ متری شدند و بدین‌ترتیب نخستین صعود این کوهستان در تابستان ۲۰۱۹ را، رقم زدند.

اطلاعات بیشتر ... به‌ زودی
.
منبع: "اورست‌تودی"

جهت برداشت مطلب ... ذکر منبع "کوه‌نوشت"

First season’s summit on 8,000 meteres

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در سه شنبه, 11 تیر 1398 14:56

First season’s summit on 8,000 meteres: by French skier Boris Langenstein scales Nanga Parbat (8,125 m)

a few minutes a go an Italian Skiers Cala Cimenti said that, at about of 6900 meters along the Kinshofer route of Nanga Parbat,he just met the French skiers Tiphaine Duperier  and  Boris on the way down

Two French skiers spent four nights at camp 4 and only Boris would have reached the 8125 meters of Nanga Parbat , yester

Tiphaine stopped instead at around 7800M

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