Ang Rita

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در چهارشنبه, 04 دی 1398 20:08

Event on this day, 1987.12.22; FIRST (and ONLY) oxygenless winter ascent of Mt Everest (8848 m) was achieved by Nepalese Ang Rita Sherpa.(Everest Today) 
Ang Rita Sherpa‘s Everest record could be one for eternity. The legendary climber from Nepal, who the locals reverently call “Snow Leopard”, is now 71 years old. No other climber has scaled the highest mountain on earth as often without bottled oxygen as Ang Rita did in the 1980s and 90s. “His record of nine will probably stand for a long time
:Stefan Nestler says
"I  had in mind that he had climbed to the summit ten times without breathing mask. So it is written in newspaper and internet articles and in books, e.g. the Guinness Book of Records. He himself has always mentioned this number too. Strictly speaking, however, it is not correct, as I discovered during my research in the “Himalayan Database”...Ang Rita has indeed ascended ten times without bottled oxygen to the highest point on earth at 8,850 meters, but during his first successful ascent in May 1983 he used a breathing mask to sleep in Camp 4 both before and after the summit push. The US climber David Breashears pointed this out at the time. According to Breashears, he had been in the same tent with Ang Rita on the South Col in spring 1983 and they had shared a Y-connection from the same oxygen bottle...After all, the Sherpa had climbed to the highest point without bottled oxygen on the summit day of 1983.
Until 1999, he achieved 19 summit successes on eight-thousanders.ten times on Everest, four times on Cho Oyu, three times on Dhaulagiri, once on Kangchenjunga and Makalu. He always did it completely without bottled – with one exception: during the aforementioned expedition in 1983
Source:DW

برگردان فارسی این متن را در ادامه مطلب دنبال کنید...

k1

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در چهارشنبه, 04 دی 1398 20:00

Mount Mashabrum (K1) with full sunlight
.
Masherbrum is located in the  Gilgit Baltistan of Pakistan. At 7,821 metres it is the 22nd highest mountain in the world and the 9th highest in Pakistan.
it has only been climbed 4 times in history...Some consider it among the toughest mountains on earth to climb.

It was the first mapped peak in the Karakoram mountain range, hence the designation "K1".
SummitPost
.No winter ascent in Masherbrum due to the severe conditions
.
Source: Wikipedia
Photo by: Alpine Adventure twt

برگردان فارسی این متن را در ادامه مطلب دنبال کنید...

The most difficult climbing route in Albania opened

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در چهارشنبه, 04 دی 1398 20:04

The most difficult climbing route in Albania opened

The famous French rock climber Sebastien Bouin climbei the first passage of one of the most difficult climbing routes in the world and the most difficult rock route in the country! ..."The Dream" category 9b! Moreover, in Albania there are still not even 9a + routes!

According to Sebastian, the route is 50 meters ... This line was first noticed by Adam Ondra and he also struck the route in the fall of 2018; however, he did not have enough time to go through it completely (then Adam had only 2 days to go through). Sebastian spent about a month working on the climb.
This route is a real dream for those who are going to switch to 9b " - said Sebastian

Sebastian already has 4 routes in category 9b, here it is also one of the four climbers in the world that have gone through so many 9b lines

Source: Sebastien Bouin FB

برگردان فارسی این متن را در ادامه مطلب دنبال کنید...

Pandora

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در چهارشنبه, 04 دی 1398 19:22

From 16 to 17 December 2019, The famous climbers Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini climbed Pandora (600m, V, M5, A0, WI6), a large mixed line on the west face of the Pordoi (Dolomites) Italy

Source: Planet Mountain
photo: @gietlsimon
@vitto_messini

برگردان فارسی این متن را در ادامه مطلب دنبال کنید...