Karakoram's winter expeditions
Winter2019-20 climbing permits for Karakoram's mountains
K2 ... two teams
Nepalian Mingma Gyalje, Icelandic John Snorri and Chinese Gao Li
Denis Urubko and Don Bowie
Broadpeak ... one team
Denis Urubko and Don Bowie
Gasherbrum 1&2 ... One team
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger
Batura Sar 7795m ... One team
Polish team
Source: AlpineAdventure Twt
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SIULA GRANDE: an international team of climbers opens the first route along the southern wall
In the summer of 2019, a large international team of climbers consisting of: Nathan Heald, Luis Crispin Thomas Schilter, Benjamin Bille, Arttu Pylkkanen took a new route along the young wall of the famous Peruvian mountain Siula Grande 6368m
Name of the new route: "Peruana Supreme"
Difficulty category: TD, AI4
Length: 1000 meters
Source: Planet Mountain
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American climber, Alex Goldfarb and Hungarian Zoltan Szlanko planning climbing trip to Khumbu Valley, Nepal from mid-January to mid-February of 2020. The goal is to summit Ama Dablam and Lobuche East in the winter conditions
The plan is to climb Lobuche East first, mostly for the purpose of acclimatization. Following that Alex and Zoltan are planning to climb Ama Dablam alpine style
Source: russianClimb
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THE "GOLDEN ICE AXE OF RUSSIA 2019"
The winners of the Russian National Prize Piolet d'Or, "Golden Ice Ax of Russia 2019", have been members of the Krasnoyarsk Team for climbing the Tangra Tower, (5820m), Khane Valley - Pakistan, between July 30 and August 2, 2019
Denis Prokofiev
Marina Popova
Nikolay Matiushin
A very vertical line with about 800m through the southeast wall, total length 1160m and difficulty 6B Other best projects of Russian gold ice axe
Kyazo Ri, 6186 m, Nepal - first ascent. Rostov team: Vasiliev A.S., Osipov I.D., Rybalchenko D.A., Shipilov V.V
Trident, 5780 m, Pakistan - first ascent. Markevich Konstantin, Sushko Denis, Semenov Valery
Jannu, 7300 m, Nepal - unfinished ascent, opening from the east side to the south
shoulder. Nilov S., Golovchenko D
Gasherbrum II, 8035 m, Pakistan - New solo route, alpine style, non-stop. Denis Urubko
Blok Peak, 5239 m, Kyrgyzstan - first ascent. Parfyonov Alexander, Timofeev Vyacheslav, Sukharev Alexey, Babiy Dmitry
Source: Anna Piuonova FB
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Leo Houlding fulfilled his childhood dream
As planned, on Wednesday, December 4, 2019, Leo Houlding, one of the best climbers in Britain and his team Anna Taylor, Wilson Cutbirth and Waldo Etherington, and local guides,
free climbed a 600-meter wall of Mount Roraima, and reached the top
They have not yet decided the name they will give to the route
more about Mt. Roraima
Mt. Roraima(2,810 m), located in the Amazon rain forest and is on the border between Brazil, Venezuela and Guyana, has a flat top
It climbed for the first time in 1973 by the British Hamish MacInnis, Joe Brown, Don Whillans & Mo Anthoine
Source: Berghaus
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