I will not name Poles as winter winners of Broad Peak

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در چهارشنبه, 04 دی 1398 13:12

Denis Urubko: I will not name Poles as winter winners of Broad Peak 
Interview with Denis Urubko by polish Journalist, Jakub Radomski

Why is Broad Peak the main goal of your upcoming winter trip

Denis Urubko: For several reasons. First of all, it is an eight-thousanders. Secondly, I have many positive associations with this summit. I was on the summit in 2003 and 2005, the second time I opened a new route there. I know the route to the summit very well, I also know how to acclimatize there. This is a good goal for a small team that wants to enjoy climbing in winter, and not just fight low temperatures, ascent difficulties, wind and other problems. In addition, no one has ever climbed Broad Peak in winter.
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No one? On March 5, 2013, Adam Bielecki, Artur Małek, Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski stood on the summit. The last two did not go down to the base and stayed there forever. It is the feat of these four officially considered the first winter ascent of Broad Peak.
Calendar winter is different and meteorological is different. I'll give you an example. During the trip to Broad Peak I will be accompanied by Canadian Don Bowie. When we planned the trip, he said, "Denis, we should attack the summit in March." "Why?" - I ask. And Bowie says, "Because it's much warmer then." And of course he is right. March in the highest mountains is already spring. That is why I consider the first winter entries to take place between December 1 and the end of February. In mid-January 2005, Piotr Morawski and Simone Moro entered Sziszapangma, while on December 11, 2004 the Frenchman Jean-Christophe Lafaille climbed the summit. And I think he is the first winter conqueror of Shishapangma. The same now, if one of us during the period I marked on you stands on Broad Peak, in my opinion will be the author of the first truly winter entry. Someone who will go down in history

Source: przegladsportowy

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PEANUTBUTTER

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در چهارشنبه, 04 دی 1398 13:01

YOSHT KOBUSH climbed a new 5000m mountain in Nepal calling it "PEANUTBUTTER"

26-year-old German climber Jost Kobusch continues to actively prepare for his main and ambitious goal: to climb Mount Everest in winter, alone and without additional oxygen

In addition to his active preparations for the winter expedition, which is related to the first ascent to the Nepalese peak Amotsang (6939 meters) , and an ascent of Chulu Fa East,
In previous day's, He climbed the nameless 5798 m mountain, in Rolwaling valley of Nepal! Yosht made it with his Ultra trail runner, Jenny.

They called this peak "Peanutbutter Mountain"
Source: @jostkobusch

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the first ascents of Pangpoche I (6,620 m) and Pangpoche II

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در چهارشنبه, 04 دی 1398 13:06

Georgians Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze and Baqar Gelashvili , who have recorded the first ascents of Pangpoche I (6,620 m) and Pangpoche II (6,504 m), located about 15 km from Manaslu, in Nepal

The Georgians, however, repaired for the first time in them while climbing the Larkya Peak (6,416 m), from which they made the first ascent in autumn 2017
Upon their return home, they were unable to find any information about these peaks
There were only two precedents, starring Japanese climbers , in 2009 and in spring 2018, when a group led by Yasuhiro Hanatani had to change the objective before even reaching the base of the mountain due to the bad conditions of the glacier.
The Georgians climbed Edge and southwest face Pangpoche II in three days of Alpine style...from September 20 to 22
 they climbed North edge of Pangpoche I (6,620 m), from September 30 to October 3
Pic1 discription: Pangpoche I and Pangpoche II from Larkya Peak

source: Desnivelt

first African to complete the Explorer Grand Slam

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در چهارشنبه, 04 دی 1398 12:57

Saray Khumalo wants to be first African to complete the Explorer Grand Slam 
The first African woman to reach the summit of Mount Everest, Saray Khumalo is on a quest to brake more records

She is aiming to be the first African to complete the Explorer Grand Slam, which involves reaching the North Pole, the South Pole and all of the seven highest peaks on the seven continents. There are only 67 people in the world who have completed this challenge to date.

She has been climbing mountains for the past seven years. She has reached the summits of Mount Kilimanjaro (5 896m) in Tanzania (2012), Mera Peak (6 476m) in Nepal (2014), Lobuche East (6 119m) in Nepal (2014), the Mount Elbrus traverse (5 642m) in southern Russia (2014), and the Mount Aconcagua traverse (6 980m) in Argentina (2015).
Source: IOL