K2

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در سه شنبه, 15 مرداد 1398 22:21

traversing under the serac of the SW ridge of K2 at about 8300m
.
Photo by: Esteban Mena

تابستان ۲۰۱۹ ... یال جنوب غربی کی‌دو
تراورسِ زیر برج یخی در ارتفاع ۸۳۰۰ متری

عکس از: «استبان منا»
جهت بازنشر ... ذکر منبع «کوه‌نوشت»

Carlos Soria on LENIN PEAK

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در سه شنبه, 15 مرداد 1398 22:17

This morning...80 years old, Spanish renowned climber Carlos Soria, together with his teammates, have reached the summit of Lenin Peak (7.134m) in Kyrgyzstan 
A success, after his knee operation and great progress in the preparation of his impending expedition to Dhaulagiri as his eleventh attempt.
He has already climbed 12summits above 8000m ... Only Dhaulagiri and Shishapangma are left

three innovative ascents that will honour Piolets d'Or 2019

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در سه شنبه, 15 مرداد 1398 22:13

Piolets d'Or 2019 has chosen to honour three innovative ascents: a famous face on an iconic mountain of the central Karakoram; a previously untouched face on a little-known peak of the western Karakoram; an ascent of one of the highest remaining unclimbed summits in Nepal. Perhaps unusually, two of these were bold solo climbs. All three summits were close to or a little above 7,000m - the three
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Latok1 ...Tom Livingstone, Aleš Česen Luka Stražar
Lunag ...David Lama Solo
and
Lupghar Sat ... Hansjörg Auer Solo

The Piolets d'Or celebrates and awards ascents rather than specifically the climbers that made them, though naturally it is those climbers who are presented with awards. Tragically, both authors of the solo ascents - Hansjörg Auer and David Lama - are no longer with us. However, at the Ladek Mountain Festival,

where the awards will be presented this September, it will be family who accept the accolades on their behalf.

Candidates for 2019 UIAA Mountain Protection Award

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در سه شنبه, 15 مرداد 1398 22:00

12 Candidates for 2019 UIAA Mountain Protection Award have been confirmed
A project from Iran has also been announced among the final nominees: "Alpine Club of Iran
Mountain Sports Center with the approach of Environmental Sustainability by Passive Solar Energy
Iran"
All the details: (link: https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa/twelve-projects-vye-for-preeminent-award/) theuiaa.org/uiaa/twelve-pr…

REINHOLD MESSNER INTERVIEW ABOUT NIRMAL PURJA

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در سه شنبه, 15 مرداد 1398 21:56

legendary Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner gave a short interview to the newspaper "La Gazzeta dello Sport" in which he appreciated the incredible project of the Nepalese mountaineer Nirmal Purja, who, as we reported earlier, for 3 months and 3 days he could pass 11 eight thousandths, which today is a real record in mountaineering.
I have never climbed to make a record, although one has been attributed to me. In fact, I just wanted to do some activities that had never been done before, which is really what is defined as a record. I never looked at the stopwatch, nor did I follow the numbers. Not even 14, the number of mountains over 8000 meters. When I finished the collection I was not competing with Jerzy Kukuczka: I just wanted to be free for other adventures, those of the Poles. But I'm curiously following the record of Nirmal Purja in the eight-eight. He climbed the Broad Peak yesterday, two days after being on top of K2.
. I met him when he was at Nanga Parbat. I was surprised by his decision and his safety. He is totally immersed in this game. Even economically: if he had stayed in the gurkhas, a very profitable pension would have been guaranteed and, on the other hand, he had to mortgage his house to try to raise the Catorce eight-eight in just seven months. Now he only has three left and the biggest obstacle he has to overcome is the Chinese permission to climb Shisha Panga and Cho Oyu.

NIRMAL PURJA

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در سه شنبه, 15 مرداد 1398 20:06

Reminder of the project possible... 14×7

WATCH IT HERE
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Yesterday, Nirmal Purja by summitting BroadPeak as the 11th summit of project, ended the 2nd phase of project.
He will start the third phase on first of September
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He will attempt on Manaslu, Shishapangma and Cho oyu
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3 phase of project possible:
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First phase... 15 March - 1June
Annapurna
Dhualagiri
Kanchenjunga
Everest
Lhotse
Makalu
.
Second phase ...1June - 1August
Nangaparbat
Gasherbrum1
Gasherbrum 2
K2
BroadPeak
.
Third phase... 1September- 1 November
Manaslu
Shishapangma
Chooyu
.
The shortest record of summiting all 14×8000m belongs to South Korean climber, Kim Chang-ho, who completed in seven years, 10 months and six days ... Kim was killed, along with several others including fellow South Korean climbers and local mountain guides, in Nepal in October, 2018, when an avalanche destroyed the 3500m-altitude base camp beneath Mount Gurja in the Dhaulagiri.