First winter ascent of Lhotse

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در سه شنبه, 10 دی 1398 18:38

31years ago on this day, Polish climber Krzysztof Wielicki made the First winter ascent of Lhotse (8516 m
We should note that Andrej Zawada, Leszek Cichy and Ingrid Bayens were in polish team too, but unfortunately they weren't feeling well

WATCH IT HERE

Source: 8000ers

Film: Polskie himalaje

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FARWELL TO 2019

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در سه شنبه, 10 دی 1398 18:29

The mountaineering community has lost a couple of very special and talented and colourful people in 2019; some by avalanches or by falls, others by old age or silly mistakes. The people named and listed here are just a select few:

Adam Watson [1930.04.14 - 2019.01.23], aged 88.
Andy Nisbet [1953.05.22 - 2019.02.05], accident on Ben Hope, Scotland, aged 65.
Tom Ballard [1988.10.16 - 2019.02.25(?)], accident on Nanga Parbat, aged 30.
Daniele Nardi [1976.06.24 - 2019.02.25(?)], accident on Nanga Parbat, aged 42.
Jess Roskelley [1982.07.13 - 2019.04.16], avalanche on Howse Peak, Alberta/BC, Canada, aged 36.
Hansjörg Auer [1984.02.18 - 2019.04.16], avalanche on Howse Peak, Alberta/BC, Canada, aged 35.
David Lama [1990.08.04 - 2019.04.16], avalanche on Howse Peak, Alberta/BC, Canada, aged 28.
Dana Coffield [1958.04.19 - 2019.04.20], avalanche on the "Des Poilus Glacier in the Wapta Icefield" in the Canadian Rockies, aged 61.
Bogdan Jankowski [1938.04.18 - 2019.05.20], natural causes, aged 81.
Martin Moran [1955.xx.xx - 2019.05.xx], and 7 others in an avalanche on Nanda Devi East, May 2019
Milan Radovic [1970.04.15 - 2019.08.08], fall on Khan Tengri, aged 49.
Zsolt Torok [1973.09.29 - 2019.08.17], fall in the Fagaras Mountains, aged 45.
Davo Karničar [1962.10.26 - 2019.09.16], hit by falling tree, aged 56.
Robert Paragot [1927.06.03 - 2019.10.24], natural causes, aged 92.
Andy Pollitt [1963.xx.xx - 2019.11.xx], stroke, aged 56[?].
Brad Gobright [1988.xx.xx - 2019.11.27?], fall on Sendero Luminoso, aged 31.

Source: Bob A. Schelfhout Aubertijn

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New record on highest point of south America

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در سه شنبه, 10 دی 1398 18:22

New record on highest point of south America
On Friday, Czech's runners and mountaineer, Martin Zhor climbed Aconcagua 6962m in 3h,38m, 17 sec
and set new speed record on it.
He said:
" I still don’t understand how it happened. On Friday When I got to about 6600m I was on 3h10m...
Those 30 minutes will forever be forged in my memory. Pushing the body at that altitude ! I was stumbling, falling over but just kept moving as fast as I could.
Last 50 meters I crawled on all fours. Muscles were failing. But I made it! I was lying half-dead after that for 20 minutes breathing so hard.."
Source: Martin Zhor FB

Photo by: Emma Svensson

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SATOPANTH 7075m

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در سه شنبه, 10 دی 1398 18:05

SATOPANTH 7075m

Satopanth is the second highest summit of the Gangotri Group, located in the Indian Himalayan Garhwal Ridge... The mountain was climbed in 1947 by a Swiss expedition. The summit was reached by André Roch, René Ditterit, Alexander Graven and Alfred Sutter

Photo discription: "Great cornice on the crest of the Satopanth"

Photo by: Yury Koshelenko

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Teams on 8000m in WINTER

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در سه شنبه, 10 دی 1398 17:27

Yesterday, teams on 8000m in WINTER
G1-2
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger has arrived in Urdukas
 EVEREST
Jost Kobusch has returned to BC after a long day working on access to Lho La. In Col, in West ridge of mountain.
BroadPeak
Denis and Lotta left the deposit for 5100 and returned to base. Don Bowie recovers from illness.
K2
Mingma G and team are going to start the expedition on Omid January.

Alan Arnette: Tough wind chills this upcoming week on K2: -60C and on Everest:-50C at 7,000-meters

Source: Alan Arnette twt, @iamsimonemoro , Denis Urubko FB, @Jostkobusch, @donbowie

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Stefano Ghisolfi runs his sixth category 9b

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در سه شنبه, 10 دی 1398 17:21

Stefano Ghisolfi runs his sixth category 9b

The famous Italian rock climber Stefano Ghisolfi said that he managed to go through one of the most difficult rock routes in the world - "Stoking the fire" category 9b, which is located in the Santa Ligna massif in Spain
For the first time, the Stoking the fire line was completed on February 6, 2013 by American climber Chris Sharma, in 2016, his first repetition was made by Adam Ondra , in 2018 the second repetition was made by Jakob Schubert , The third repetition of the route was made by the Japanese Sachi Amma in 2019, the fourth repetition of the route was Stefano Ghisolfi also in 2019... It took him 2 weeks to complete the project!
...due to heavy rains, all the hooks on the route were saturated with water, Stafano managed to overcome the route
  Source: @steghiso

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