New route on Cho Oyu from Nepal

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در شنبه, 28 تیر 1399 09:41

New route on Cho Oyu from Nepal

Corona necessity is the mother of invention. “These days, many climbers are free, so we can use good and experienced climbers to find the route,” Maya Sherpa writes to Stefan Nestler. NMA Vice President,Maya, means a new route on the Nepalese south side of the eight-thousander Cho Oyu. One that is suitable not only for top climbers but also for commercial expeditions. Maya Sherpa has already scaled four eight-thousanders: Mount Everest (a total of three times, both from Tibet and Nepal), K2, and Cho Oyu.
Up to now, expedition operators have only offered ascents on the normal route in Tibet via the northwest ridge of the mountain– the technically relatively easy route to the summit at 8,188 meters.
However, in recent years the Chinese-Tibetan authorities had drastically tightened the price screw for Cho Oyu and issued permits rather restrictively.
The Nepalese south side of Cho Oyu is considered technically challenging and at risk of avalanches. The first ascent via this side of the mountain was achieved in fall 1978 by the two Austrians Eduard Koblmüller and Alois Furtnera along with Pasang Dawa Lama, who climbed the Southeast ridge. Until today this route has never been repeated. The last successful ascent of Cho Oyu from Nepal was made eleven years ago: In spring 2009, the two Kazakhs Denis Urubko and Boris Dedeshko opened a new route through the South Face.
For clients of commercial expeditions, all routes on the south side that have been opened so far are too dangerous and challenging. “That’s why we are trying to find possible and safe routes,” says Maya Sherpa, they still need funds. The Nepalese Ministry of Tourism has signalled the government’s support. The team will probably consist of eight international mountain guides and ten experienced Sherpas, says Maya, who herself wants to be part of the team: “If everything is going well, we will start moving in the first week of September.”

Source: Stefan Nestler

Famous Nirmal Purja

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در شنبه, 28 تیر 1399 09:32

Nirmal Purja , NIMSDAI, the gurkha that became famous all over the world with his " Project Possible " , in which he climbed all 14 8000 m peaks in just 189 days, is in Chamonix to attend a paragliding course 

May be he is planning to further improve his monstrous record by speeding downhil
For now he has only said that he is waiting for Nepal to reopen its flights to go to Kathmandu to prepare with its agency autumn shipments to Everest and Manaslu 
As for the long lockdown , he explained that he had spent 100 % of his efforts to write his book " Beyond Possible ",in the autumn
source: Allsandro Filipini
@koohnevesht

Dyatlov Pass incident

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در پنج شنبه, 26 تیر 1399 23:29

Dyatlov Pass incident

After 61years,A few days ago, the Russian justice delivered its conclusions  about Dyatlov Pass incident... Faced with public pressure in the face of a botched investigation at the material time, the file was reopened. The results will certainly not satisfy the proponents of the most extravagant versions. But Andreï Kouriakov, deputy head of the general prosecutor's office of the Urals federal district, explains it simply: an avalanche ... There would therefore be neither extraterrestrials, nor military tests, nor unexplained meteorological phenomenon. A simple avalanche
...A theory that hardly fits with the avalanche that pushed young people to leave their tent and get lost in the cold night.

The Dyatlov Pass: incident  was an event in which nine Russian hikers died in the northern Ural Mountains between 1 and 2 February 1959, in uncertain circumstances. The experienced trekking group, who were all from the Ural Polytechnical Institute, had established a camp on the slopes of Kholat Syakhl, in an area now named in honor of the group's leader, Igor Dyatlov. During the night, something caused them to tear their way out of their tents and flee the campsite, all while inadequately dressed for the heavy snowfall and sub-zero temperatures.

After the group's bodies were discovered, an investigation by Soviet authorities determined that six had died from hypothermia while the other three showed signs of physical trauma. One victim had a fractured skull; two others had major chest fractures and the body of one of the group was missing both its eyes. One of the victims was missing a tongue. The investigation concluded that a "compelling natural force" had caused the deaths. Numerous theories have been put forward to account for the unexplained deaths, including animal attacks, hypothermia, avalanche, katabatic winds, infrasound-induced panic, military involvement, or some combination of these.
Russia opened a new investigation into the incident in 2019, and the conclusions were presented in July 2020: the investigation concluded that the cause of death was hypothermia due to a combination of an avalanche, forcing the group to leave their camp, combined with low visibility. Andrey Kuryakov, deputy head of the regional prosecutor's office, stated: “It was a heroic struggle. There was no panic. But they had no chance to save themselves under the circumstances.”

source:altitude

first winter ascent to Manaslu

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در یکشنبه, 22 دی 1398 20:20

On January 12, 1984, Maciej Berbeka and Ryszard Gajewski make their first winter ascent to Manaslu

 First pic by: @ivankozz
Second picture discription: Maciej Berbeka at the top of Manaslu

Source: Everest Today

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LAST Issued permits from Nepal

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در یکشنبه, 22 دی 1398 20:17

Latest release from Department of Tourism, Nepal. Total 27 climbers of 5 different expeditions have been issued permits to scale 4 different mountains this Winter

Source: Everest Today twt

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K2 ... 2020 Winter

دسته: اخبار

منتشر شده در یکشنبه, 22 دی 1398 20:14

K2 ... 2020 Winter

Tomorrow morning Mingma G (as leader) and the team will start their trekking toward Base Camp
Team list
Mingma Gyalje Sherpa...Nepal
 Tamting Sherpa...Nepal
Pasang Namgel Sherpa...Nepal
 Kili Pempa Sherpa (Nepal) - John Snorri Sigurionsson ...Iceland
Gao Li ...China
Tomaz Rotar ...Slovenia

Source : Mingma G FB

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